48 hours in Edinburgh: The perfect two-day itinerary

There’s more to the Scottish capital than kilts, bagpipes, and drams of whisky, though there will be plenty of those too. Brimming with harrowing history, hipsters, and Harry Potter, in just two days you’ll storm the 3,000-year-old castle, brunch with the cool crowd, and venture underground to unearth the city’s darker side. Here’s how to spend 48 hours in Edinburgh.
  1. Day 1

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    1. Morning

      Grab breakfast and explore Princes Street Gardens (1 hour)

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      Kickstart your morning with a stroll through the blooming Princes Street Gardens. Linking the Old Town to New Town, the park was originally a loch before it was drained and repurposed into a green space with a train station. From the ornate Ross Fountain, snap an iconic shot of Edinburgh Castle on the rock before stopping for a coffee at Sir Walter's Cafe in the Gardens, a picturesque kiosk that’s especially nice on a summer day. Better yet, seek out a seriously good breakfast along the streets of New Town. Urban Angel, Greenwoods, Social Bite, and Cairngorm Coffee are four cafes favored by locals.
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    2. Find your inner witch or wizard on the Royal Mile (2 hours)

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      There are countless stories and secrets tucked into the wynds, courtyards, and houses along the Royal Mile. Running through the heart of Old Town, the historic stretch is lined with the city’s top sights and the best way to explore is with a guided tour. That is, unless you’re a Harry Potter fan. Did you know Edinburgh inspired JK Rowling to create the series? Victoria Street was the inspiration for Diagon Alley, and Edinburgh Castle inspired Hogwarts. Conjure up a morning of wizardry and discover the magic of the UNESCO World Heritage city with a Harry Potter walking tour through the Old Town. The only thing left to do is buy your own wand.
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    3. Afternoon

      Storm Edinburgh Castle (2 hours)

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      The iconic Edinburgh Castle has loomed over Scotland since the Iron Age. In the 3,000 years since, legendary battles and sieges have played out here shaping Scotland as we know it today. Marvel at the impressive Mons Meg, a siege gun weighing over six tons that once defended the castle. The One O’Clock Gun is fired at (you guessed it) 1:00 PM daily except Sundays, so make sure you’re in a prime location. The gun was traditionally fired to help sailors in the port of Leith set their watches accurately. The best way to experience the castle is with a guided tour that also skips the line. Be sure to reserve tickets at least one week in advance — it’s the city’s top attraction.

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    4. Live like royalty at the Palace of Holyroodhouse (1.5 hours)

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      If you came to Scotland to castle hop, make this monument your next stop. The grand Palace of Holyroodhouse is the Queen's official residence when she visits Scotland. So long as Her Majesty is out of town, you can explore the chambers of Mary, Queen of Scots, the Throne Room, and the State Apartments. Save time and skip the line by purchasing this entry ticket. If your legs are up to the challenge, the castle is located in Holyrood Park with Arthur’s Seat — the highest point in Edinburgh — looming over it. If you have the time to tackle this hike, the views are just as rewarding as you’d expect them to be.
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    5. Evening

      Slow down for sunset at Calton Hill (1 hour)

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      As the sun sets on your first day in Edinburgh, you deserve the best seat in the house. Calton Hill offers snap-worthy views of iconic buildings and monuments, and on a clear day you can see out to Fife, North Berwick, and beyond. Calton Hill also has plenty of its own attractions to explore. Get your dose of culture at the National Monument, Nelson’s Monument, Dugald Stewart Monument, and the Old Royal High School, or arrive ready to witness the sun drop behind the city’s spires and castle with a bottle of wine or a picnic. You can also pre-order a hamper from The Lookout, a restaurant at the top of Calton Hill, or book a table to dine with an unforgettable view.

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    6. Have a ghostly evening in the Underground Vaults (1.5 hours)

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      Night has fallen, but your fun is just beginning. Did you know that you’ve been walking above a subterranean city all day? Beneath the streets the Underground Vaults of Old Town have been around since the 18th century. Beginning as house taverns, cobbler workshops, and storage, these vaults eventually took on a darker role. Take a guided tour from a costumed expert to learn about their dark and haunted history, from illegal gambling to storing bodies.

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  2. Day 2

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    1. Morning

      Escape to the charming Dean Village (1.5 hours)

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      Rise, shine, and step back in time at beautiful Dean Village. While wandering the cobbled streets of this calm oasis you’ll forget you’re standing in the middle of a capital city. Set on the banks of the Water of Leith, the quiet and quaint Dean Village was once a busy industrial hub with hydro-powered mills, but now it feels like you’ve stepped into the Scottish countryside. After soaking in the village atmosphere, stroll along the leafy green Water of Leith Walkway, a wildlife hotspot, passing by the lush Dean Gardens on your way to Stockbridge.
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    2. Get your brunch fix in Stockbridge (1.5 hours)

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      Edinburgh’s bohemian neighborhood Stockbridge is a quirky area well known for its great cafe scene, chic boutiques, and upmarket thrift stores. Locals flock here on weekends to dine at some of the city’s top brunch spots and Instagram-worthy cafes, including The Pantry, Grams, and Cowan and Sons. For something lighter, pick up takeaway coffee and gourmet pastries at Fortitude, Artisan Roast, or Pastry Section and take your goodies to the nearby Inverleith Park to lounge around the lake. Every Sunday an excellent farmers market pops up in Stockbridge with artisans, makers, and growers on show too.
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    3. Afternoon

      Step into the past at Gladstone's Land (1 hour)

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      Edinburgh’s Old Town was once surrounded by a large defensive wall, squeezing the inhabitants for space and making them build upwards. This led to a sort-of “Medieval Manhattan” with buildings said to be up to 14 stories tall. Discover what 17th-century tenement life was like when you step inside the narrow six-storey Gladstone’s Land. Built between 1617 and 1620, the townhouse once owned by merchant Thomas Gladstone is one of the oldest continually inhabited buildings in the United Kingdom. Some floors of the house have been turned into a beautiful museum and ice-cream shop.

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    4. Connect with science and scones (2 hours)

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      While the streets of Edinburgh are filled with living history, a journey through the National Museum of Scotland will highlight the country’s prominent role in science, technology, art, and design. Admission to museums is free in Scotland, so put the money towards a Scottish afternoon tea. Stay close with a casual bite at the museum’s Balcony Cafe or treat yourself to some decadence in the Signet Library — whose afternoon tea has the royal stamp of approval — or Palm Court at the Balmoral Hotel, although booking weeks ahead for these popular options is almost essential.

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    5. Evening

      Down a few drams of Scotland’s greatest export (2 hours)

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      Now that you've lined your stomach with scones and sandwiches, it’s time to taste the best of the country’s finest single malt whisky. For the true scotch enthusiasts, and those who are curious about the smoky golden liquor, there’s no better way to spend an afternoon than with some storytelling and sampling. On this popular whisky tasting tour, you’ll learn all there is to know about Scotland’s national drink, and even how to distinguish where in Scotland each whisky came from by judging the flavor profile of each bottle.
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    6. Chase nightlife in Leith (3 hours)

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      After the sun sets, Leith lights up. This harborside suburb is one of the coolest places in Edinburgh to eat, drink, and party into the night. Originally its own city, waterfront Leith became part of Edinburgh in 1920. Wave hello to the Royal Yacht Britannia docked in the port before embarking on your own seaside adventure. Roseleaf is a hip, artsy bar with great food and cocktails, while Teuchters Landing is a classic pub with a fireplace and a long beer list, and Ship on the Shore is the perfect spot for a date over Scottish seafood. Follow your ears to the roaring laughs and best music to continue your night, with a guarantee that the famously friendly Scottish hospitality will be plentiful.

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