48 Hours in Marseille: The perfect two-day itinerary

1. Day 1

   
   1. Morning

      Explore the historic Vieux Port (1.5 hours)

      

      Start your first morning early with a wander around Vieux Port, Marseille’s old port, and it will quickly become apparent why the city was once named the European Capital of Culture. The waterfront’s architecture showcases the city’s ancient Greek roots, juxtaposed with a backdrop of street art and colorful buildings in the distance. On the south side of the port, find the famous bakery Four des Navettes — baking since the 18th century — and pick up some of its namesake goods, Marseille’s famed orange blossom cookies. Afterwards, walk towards the north side of the harbor to pass L’Ombrière: a polished steel canopy with slender pillars designed by Norman Foster that both provides shelter for the ferry passengers and creates the perfect selfie opp — a must-see in the area. Further along the Quai de Belges, you can catch the Fish Market every morning and get a glimpse into a centuries-old way of life.

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   2. Steep yourself in history at Fort Saint-Jean (1 hour)

      

      Located at the entrance of the port on its north side, Fort Saint-Jean is well worth a visit, but often gets overlooked as people rush to see the Mucem. Take the time to pause and explore this historical site and get lost in its ancient walls and battlements, vaulted passageways, and towers. Make sure to climb the spiral staircase which takes you to the top of one tower for mesmerizing views over the harbor and its many boats. The best part? Entrance is free.

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   3. Afternoon

      Contrast the ancient city with modern Mucem (1.5 hours)

      

      Leading away from the fort are two bridges, one of which leads you to your next stop, the very modern Mucem, Marseille’s Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations. Just from standing on this walkway which connects to Mucem’s terrace, you’ll be able to drink in some pretty spectacular views of the museum’s glass and metal exterior, as well as the Cathédrale de la Major — a majestic 12th century Roman Catholic cathedral — in the distance. Want to dig a little deeper? Buy a skip-the-line ticket to explore inside the Mucem and see the 350,000 objects that form its permanent and temporary exhibitions, from 17th-century art to commentary on today’s civilizations.

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   4. Stop for a late lunch and explore Le Panier (2 hours)

      

      The buildings lining the colorful streets of Le Panier are packed together like sardines, the shaded alleys providing a welcome respite as the city heats up. It’s best enjoyed in the daytime and the perfect spot for a little independent exploring, but a downloadable walking tour will point out the best bits if you don’t want to miss anything. Hungry? Look out for restaurant-lined Place de Lenche or Rue des Pistoles, perfect spots for an alfresco lunch. Nearby is an absolute must-visit, La Vieille Charité, a former almshouse which has been transformed into a museum and cultural center — and the architecture is fabulous.

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   5. Evening

      Find some refreshment at the Frioul islands (3.5 hours)

      

      By the late afternoon, you’ll be ready to swap your walking shoes for your swimsuit and head to the water. Bypass the beaches and hop on a boat near Marseille’s Town Hall to take you to the Frioul archipelago. Book a place on a sunset cruise aboard a traditional schooner, sailing past the Château d’If and the Notre-Dame de la Garde. The crew will anchor in secluded coves for swimming and snorkeling in the crystal-clear Med, before preparing a light dinner buffet for you, washed down with rosé as the sun sets. What could be a better end to your first day in Marseille?

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2. Day 2

   
   1. Morning

      Enjoy the sights, sounds, and tastes of La Canebière and Noailles (2 hours)

      

      La Canebière, a 17th-century avenue constructed under Louis XIV — who ordered the city’s expansion — has since been given a facelift. Today, it’s home to an array of shops and restaurants, as well as the Noailles market, where the sacks of potent spices and vendors’ crates brimming with fresh produce will remind you that it’s time for breakfast. Known as ‘the belly of Marseille’, follow your nose to any of its stands selling fresh pastries and café au lait. While you’re there, check out the offerings at Herboristerie du Père Blaize, one of the last known herbal pharmacists, that dates back to 1815. From here, it’s only a 15-minute walk to Quai du Port, should you decide to venture on a half-day trip to the Calanques at 11:00 AM.

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   2. Afternoon

      Cruise to Calanques (5 hours)

      

      It might feel difficult to tear yourself away from Marseille itself, but the Calanques National Park, where lush greenery sits atop limestone cliffs overlooking the water, is something very special indeed. While you can explore the park, with its gorges and ocean views, on foot, this journey can be a little congested during peak seasons — so give the hiking and parking mission a miss and book a ticket to arrive by sea instead. Set sail on a magnifique catamaran and from its deck, admire the remarkable coastline around Marseille. As well as lots of swim and snorkel stops, you’ll be served a delicious lunch onboard.
      

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   3. Or explore the impressive Palais Longchamp (2 hours)

      

      If you’d rather spend more time in the city on your second day, make for the colonnade-lined Palais Longchamp next. One of Marseille’s most picturesque spots, this monument was erected to bring water to the city and is full of architectural wonder. As well as an elaborate fountain entrance, it houses two museums in its wings, the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Muséum d'Histoire Naturelle — and is surrounded by the beautiful gardens, waterfalls, and fountains of Parc Longchamp. Want to hear more about its history from an expert? Join this guided tour.

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   4. Find a cultural mash-up in Friche La Belle de Mai (2.5 hours)

      

      La Belle de Mai is a former working class neighborhood of Marseille, where an old 19th-century tobacco factory has been transformed into a multi-purpose cultural space, spanning everything from galleries to concert halls and a bookshop via a yoga space and skate park. It’s just €5 (on the spot) to visit and, on your left as you enter, you’ll find a display of the day’s events as well as maps to help you decide what to do. It’s also home to Les Grandes Tables restaurant, which is a great and superbly artistic spot to grab lunch and people watch — this is where Marseille’s hot young artist crowd gather to read, drink, and play.

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   5. Climb up to the Notre-Dame de La Garde (2 hours)

      

      The most recognizable and most visited site in Marseille is Notre-Dame de La Garde, which you have no doubt already spotted looming over the city. The destination for many Assumption Day pilgrimages, this impressive basilica is a must-visit. If your feet are in need of a break, a Segway tour can whisk you to the top and offer some relief, interesting facts, and a breeze en route. Atop the limestone rock on which Notre-Dame de La Garde sits, you’ll find spectacular 360-degree views of Marseille and easily its most impressive sunset. When you’re ready to descend, check out other notable monuments, such as the Abbey of Saint-Victor, as you go.

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   6. Evening

      Savor the flavors at Vallon des Auffes (2 hours)

      

      In the fishing port of Vallon des Auffes by night, southwest of Vieux Port, you’ll be able to see the city of Marseille illuminated on one side, and the glittering dark sea on the other. It’s also where some of the city’s best restaurants sit prettily, making the most of the fruits of local land and sea. One of the most loved spots is Chez Jeannot, which marries Italian and French flavors on the grill, and has incredible views of the arched bridge and fishing boats. It’s best to make a booking in advance — as it is in most places in Vallon des Auffes — to guarantee you see out your two days in the city in style.
      

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