48 hours in Istanbul: The perfect two-day itinerary

1. Day 1

   
   1. Morning

      Explore Old Istanbul and the Hagia Sophia (1.5 hours)

      

      In Istanbul’s historic Old Town, the Hagia Sophia is the most visited attraction in the city, so it’s best to visit early in the morning to avoid the crowds. Originally a Byzantine church, it was transformed into a mosque in 1453 and later took the form of a museum. Visitors can still witness the majestic wallpapers and traditional artifacts dating back almost 15 centuries. It’s free to enter, so whilst you can explore on your own, it’s well worth taking a guided tour to peel back layers of the landmark’s storied heritage, myths, and legends — some tours also include the Blue Mosque nearby, so you get the most bang for your buck. Don’t forget that limbs and shoulders must be covered upon entering, in respect of Muslim traditions.

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   2. Go inside the Ottoman Sultans' palace (2 hours)

      

      UNESCO World Heritage site Topkapi Palace served as the main residence of the Ottoman Sultans up until the last days of the empire in the early 20th century. A vast complex that includes the Harem house (where all the politics took place), the buildings are full of elaborate mosaics, Iznik tiles, and precious jewels. Connected by elegant courtyards and gardens, you can wander through on your own, take a short half-hour tour, or immerse yourself in the Ottoman Empire’s tumultuous timeline with a thought-provoking guided tour. Early morning is the best time to visit, but its cafe is one of the city’s most expensive pit stops, so you might want to pick up a coffee before you arrive. Leave from the palace’s northwestern exit and stroll through the tranquil, tree-trimmed Gulhane Park, whose name means “house of roses”.

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   3. Afternoon

      Hop between the Basilica Cistern, Blue Mosque, and Sultanahmet Square (1.5 hours)

      

      Within steps of Hagia Sophia, you’ll find three of the city’s must-sees. Both the Blue Mosque and Sultanahmet Square are free to enter, but the Basilica Cistern requires a ticket. If you want to avoid the lines for these popular sights, buy a combi ticket for speedy skip-the-line access to all three. There’s the Byzantine era’s largest water pool, one of the most striking mosques, and important reminders of the social and sporting center of Roman Constantinople (Istanbul’s former name).

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   4. Tuck in to a traditional lunch in the Old City (1.5 hours)

      

      The Old City, Sultanahmet, has no shortage of appealing restaurants, many with pretty pergolas or rooftop terraces with camera-ready views of the city and the Bosphorus. With a rainbow of lanterns, flowering foliage, and crochet-covered tree trunks, House of Medusa is a popular spot for style as well as flavor, whilst 360 Panorama keeps the promise made by its name. Alternatively, you can eat your way around the city with a guided food tour that provides an immersive experience of the street food culture here: you’ll try traditional local dishes such as simit, baklava, and kebabs, finding new favorites and learning about the recipes as you go.

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   5. Get lost, literally, in the Grand Bazaar (1.5 hours)

      

      Souvenirs, spices, tea, coffee, trinkets: the Grand Bazaar is one of the world’s biggest covered markets, with thousands of stalls and shops for bartering, buying, and browsing. Local vendors navigate the labyrinthine layout with ease, but it might take you a little longer, so if you spot something you like, treat yourself — you might not find it again. It’s a safe environment, but it’s known that carrying cash is a must so keep an eye out for pickpockets.

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   6. Evening

      Get caught up in a show at HodjaPasha Culture Center (2 hours)

      

      The Mevlevei Sema ceremony is a form of meditation through live music that symbolizes a journey to God, with vocals, instruments, and whirling dervish dancers in billowing white gowns. It’s a moving, memorable spectacle that illustrates an important part of Sufi Muslim heritage, and it’s a popular one so book in advance. Or if after a day of exploring you'd rather be soothed than sung to, try a Turkish bath experience where you'll be pampered using centuries-old rituals to relieve your body and mind. Book your treatment at the 16th-century Çemberlitaş Hammam in advance, one of the oldest and most beautiful in town.
      

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2. Day 2

   
   1. Morning

      Explore the other side of historic Istanbul in Üsküdar (1.5-2 hours)

      

      If you’re staying on the European side of the city, take the Marmaray (a train that goes under the Bosphorus Strait) from the European center to Üsküdar, or take the public ferry. The train takes around five minutes, but a little extra time on the ferry means better views, a cheap ticket, and smiling attendants serving tea in traditional Turkish cups. From the Marmaray station, head north along the scenic waterfront — where families and friends share halal picnics on the promenade, listen to live music, and weave in and out of coffee shops — until you find yourself in Kuzguncuk. Filled with candy-colored, 100-year-old jettied houses, the neighborhood feels like a village, and is the most mosque-dense area of Istanbul with over 180 to admire, so take your time exploring before jetting back across the Bosphorus.

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   2. Meander, shop, and eat, from Taksim to Galata (4 hours)

      

      From the city’s most famous meeting point, Taksim Square, meander along the longest and oldest shopping street in the city, Istiklal, or hitch a ride on the historic red 100-year-old tram — watch and learn from locals, who hop on and hang off the couplings whilst it moves slowly up the street. On the way, admire the neoclassical buildings, browse the designer boutiques, and have the opportunity to explore some of the city’s most alternative museums, like the Pera, Modern Art, and Toys museums. Some beautiful Christian churches remain in the area, too. When you reach the Galata Tower, part of the ancient city's defense wall, take in the view as you find a seat at one of the traditional restaurants that surround it for lunch. Once you've refueled, walk downhill, passing by art galleries and souvenir shops, until you reach the modern fish market and the Galata Bridge, the oldest bridge in Istanbul, that connects the Old City with Galata. While walking tours are also common here, nothing beats doing all of this at your own pace and soaking up the buzz of Istanbul.

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   3. Afternoon

      Excite your senses at the Spice Market (1 hour)

      

      From the Galata Bridge, if you don’t smell it first, you’ll spot a large covered market building that houses all the spices loved in this melting pot of continents and cultures. Get lost in the alleys of the Spice Market, soaking up the scents and sounds as you fill your bags with your favorites. Then, give yourself an energy boost with some strong Turkish coffee and traditional sweets at one of the modern cafes in the district of Sirkeci, where the city's main train station lies. It’s the terminus of perhaps the most famous locomotive of them all, the Orient Express, and on the right day you might just see it waiting for its well-heeled passengers before a 10-day journey to Paris.

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   4. Evening

      See the sunset on the Bosphorus (1-3 hours)

      

      The best way to bring two days in Istanbul to a close? A cruise on the Bosphorus at sunset, as the city turns golden and its spires, domes, and minarets create silhouettes on the skyline. Book a small group cruise and enjoy a glass of wine and snacks, or book a dinner cruise that includes drinks, traditional live music, and dancing. They take a traditional route to the north of the Bosphorus Strait, first along the European side and then across to the Asian side of Istanbul, sailing under the Bosphorus Bridge and passing palaces, monuments, and mansions along the way. If you prefer your dinner and nightlife on dry land, you can also board the public ferry — a must if you took the train in the morning — and enjoy the sunset experience for just a few cents, plus you’ll be back on your way to the city’s Asian side for your next stop.
      

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   5. Tap into the city’s after-hours attitude in cool Kadikoy (3 hours)

      

      For a night out like no other, you’re best to be in Kadikoy, an immersive neighborhood bursting with energy on any night of the week. Historical buildings are home to a buzzing nightlife scene that attracts the city’s bright young revelers. Owing to its location, the food here has a much stronger Asian influence than on the western side of the city, and it’s hard to be disappointed wherever you eat. Dance music spills out of every door and the smell of kebab and palak entices both locals and tourists over to street-side stalls. You’ll need cash for them, and a few useful words in Turkish will take you a long way, and before you know it, it’ll be morning.
      

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