Go inside the fascinating world of Japanese Noh theater

By Mikael Jack

Kyoto is Japan’s cultural heart. A mesmerizing place where old imperial palaces, Buddhist temples, traditional gardens, and ancient art forms seamlessly blend with the city’s thoroughly modern beat.

Among Kyoto’s highlights, noh theater remains one of the most fascinating and mysterious. Japan’s oldest surviving form of theater, developed in the 14th century, the musical drama is based on classical Japanese literature. Noh performances evoke deep emotions through music, costumes, dances, and chants, and experiencing it is to immerse yourself in 600 years of Japanese history.

Enter Julia, a California-born, Kyoto-raised tour guide who developed a love of noh theater at a young age. She grew up surrounded by classical Japanese art and literature and, by 13, was fascinated by noh, watching plays any chance she got. At 14, she was learning the ropes from a professional noh actor, and has practiced the traditional dances and chants for 25 years. Now, she tailors tours for visitors to Kyoto, introducing them to the world of noh.

She leads guests through the history of noh, visiting a seasoned actor and explaining how generations of noh families are formed. Inside the noh studio, guests learn how the intricate and elaborate costumes and masks are made and see them up close. Then, years of training, traditions, and staging come together in a private noh performance. The experience includes the rare opportunity to try noh for yourself. You’ll also have time to explore the beautiful countryside village of Ohara, nestled in the hills in northern Kyoto.

Here, Julia tells us more about the art of noh, what to expect when you join her, and how the experience can enrich your visit to Kyoto.

What do you find so enticing about noh?

I was struck by the way complex and contrasting elements are condensed and presented in a simple, elegant form. With noh, you can enjoy poetry, dance, music, and all the visual elements all at once. It’s an all-encompassing art form and its “incompleteness” allows spectators’ minds to engage with and interpret it in their own way.

Is that why it has remained such an important art form for so many years?

It has catered to the different needs of the audiences through the centuries, and although the themes are very old, they’re universal and still relevant today.

Is noh spiritually significant?

Absolutely. It stemmed from religious rites, Shinto and Buddhism, and developed during a time in history that Zen Buddhism was spreading in Japan, so it really embodies those ideas.

Traditional Japanese beliefs — that all plants and beings are capable of attaining enlightenment — are interwoven into every performance, and telling profound stories about overcoming trauma and difficult experiences are part of the characters’ roles.

What happens during a noh performance?

A noh play typically lasts around 90 minutes, though it is common for more than one play to be performed in the same event. Every performance begins with a bare stage, lights on. There is no curtain separating the stage from the audience seating. Actors in beautiful costumes and mysterious masks glide on stage entering through the bridgeway. The performance conventions of noh — a world away from the more widely known, realistic form of acting — make the experience of watching noh feel like a dream.

What are the most famous noh plays?

“Funa Benkei,” in which a horde of ghost warriors reappears from the sea to take revenge on the warrior who defeated them, and “Sumidagawa,” which tells the story of a mother searching the country for her lost son, are two that spring to mind. “Sumidagawa” was actually adapted into an operatic drama by British composer Benjamin Britten, called “Curlew River.”

What does it take to become a noh performer?

Professional noh performers specialize exclusively in noh, and it isn’t unusual for them to have begun training as young as three or four. The deep understanding of the art requires a lifetime of practice. I’ve been doing this for 25 years — an amateur.

Why masks?

Noh masks are part of a tradition in which supernatural forces such as deities or spirits inhabit a ritual object that is shown in front of an audience. Even today noh masks are treated not as a mere stage prop, but as a vehicle through which characters can appear on stage.

Are the noh costumes just as important?

Because the staging is so simple, costumes play a big role in informing the audience of the character’s personality or the theme. The patterns and colors are symbolic too. Red represents energy and youth, but in the right context it can also mean power, and gold means something inhuman, a demon or deity — every detail combines to tell the story.

What are you excited to share with guests to your noh experience?

Once you’ve interacted with a noh actor and experienced the chant and dance movements, you can better understand the complexity and subtle nuances of noh. It really enriches the experience of watching a play. Our workshop is also a chance to see the exquisite costumes and masks up close, and the work and feeling which goes into them, which you can normally only see behind glass in a museum.

Read more about Kyoto

• The best things to do in Kyoto
• Monks and meditation: diving into Japanese tradition
• Your ultimate guide to Kyoto, Japan